Well, well well,
It seems like it is time for another posting. Besides, surely we all must tire of Rich’s gloating about posh international destinations as an intern while poor Shannon suffers in the U.S. Allow me to present our team’s latest adventure in Singapore…
The story actually takes place in Malaysia. In particular, we visited the Malaysian town of Jahore Bahru (JB). Translated, that means “city with an ‘open air’ sewer system” or “smelly town of death.” I am still trying to wash the smell of that Malaysian town off of me. Think of it as Singapore’s poor cousin. Once you clear immigration, a 30 minute process that should only take 10 minutes, you then get on a bus towards the JB. You wait on this bus for over 30 minutes due to traffic. Or you can spend 10 minutes walking the same distance, but they won’t tell you that. After you then clear the Malaysian checkpoint, a 15 minute process that should take 30 minutes (it is explained later), you then are in the city of Jahore Bahru. The only safe place to eat is McDonalds, where we had breakfast to go.
Jahore Bahru is filled with muslim stores in which you cannot buy anything unless you are muslim. I tried to buy a really nice painting at a market stall. When I asked the lady what the writing said, she asked “are you a Muslim?” “Yes” I replied, in between bites of the sausage, egg and bacon McMuffin sandwich. For some strange reason, she did not believe me and said that she could not sell items to non-Muslims. Discouraged, I finished my sandwich and then continued to look around.
Other city tourist attractions include viewing the weekly hunted and stuffed animals of the city’s sultan, playing ‘malaria roulette’ with the mosquitoes that have a taste for American blood, and trying to avoid the ‘smell pockets’ that take one by surprise and saps your appetite and will to live. A sure sign that we should have gone to Indonesia instead was that it rained as we were entering Jahore Bahru and stopped when we left.
To get a sense of the smell, imagine what 100 dead bodies from the last pro-democracy uprising a few years ago would smell like. Then throw in dead animal remains (the only ducks floating down the ‘river’ were already cooked). For ‘ambience,’ add the smell that comes from a TKE room after Spring Day. Bake gingerly @ 90 degrees and then serve to who all dare visit and/or live there.
And while Singapore has adequate border controls, one had to wonder about Malaysia. We had cleared immigration to leave Malaysia when we realized that we forgot to buy tickets for the bus back to Malaysia (tickets cost about $1 U.S.). We would have to walk back into the city (a very short walk…literally across the street) to get tickets for the bus (which are interestingly, not available at the bus/immigration checkpoint). The problem was that we had already handed the Malaysian immigration officers our immigation/customs forms. Despite this, we then walked down the street that the transnational busses use. Half way down we found a security guard. We explained to him that we forgot to get tickets and that we’d need to leave the checkpoint, but that we had already gave immigration our forms. However, the sounds of our nervous voices were secondary to him enjoying his cigarette. Before we could finish explaining the problem, he said “OK, sure” and turned away to enjoy his cigarette. We think we would have gotten the same reply had we said that we planned a mass killing spree. Anyway, after we got our tickets, we walked down the same ‘secure’ street behind the immigration checkpoint. Sure enough, our ever-aware officer was smoking another cigarette (this becomes important later). With a wave and a nod we ‘cleared’ immigration for a second time and got onto the bus and left the country. On the bus, we heard someone complaining that border control confiscated their cigarettes.
So we learned that Malaysia has a beautiful and interesting culture. Just not in Jahore Bahru. Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit the cool parts of Malaysia, but we expect that some island-hopping in Indonesia next week will make up for the experience. What else have we learned? That the only thing that makes this experience different than the Mexico experience is that Malaysians in poor cities have more teeth. Still it was an adventure and enabled me to write an e-mail update, so the experience could not have been all that bad. 😉
Ciao!
–RC–